The Seven Hills of Rome

March 1998

One of the criteria given for a peak in the MAM millennium challenge included "of local significance ". What could have greater local significance in Rome than the Seven Hills, central to the legend of the foundation of the city. So I resolved that on my next trip to Rome, I would attempt to visit the Seven Hills.

Some research was required, as my guidebook was not clear which were the seven. A search through the books in W.H.Smith gave me the information I needed; Palatine, Capitoline, Viminal, Quirinal, Esquiline, Aventine, and Celian.

On our first free afternoon, I went with three colleagues to the Coloseum and Forum, then we paid our 12000 Lire to ascend the Palatine Hill. This is reputed to be where Rome was founded, and by 2000 years ago was the site of the prime residences of the city. It is situated immediately south of the Forum, overlooking the chariot-racing course (Circo Massimo). It now provides a fascinating selection of ruins, the Farnese Gardens, and superb views over the Forum and the City.

The other side of the Coloseum is the Esquiline Hill. It has little to commend it, we walked up a road to the summit, and we didn’t stay long.

The Viminal Hill is the only summit other than the Monch / Jungfrau that I have visited by metro. The long technical climb up the steps and escalator from the station platform takes you to the bus station on the surface. Across the road is the Palazza dei Cinquecento, which is about the highest point. Just to be sure, we walked North across the large flat summit to reach our hotel at Villa Torlonia.

If you are at the Piazza Vienzia and want a choice of restaurants, you could have a long walk. Our route took us over the Quirinal Hill, the clear summit of which is marked by the Piazza Quirinale, the defence ministry buildings, and fine views across the city to the Vatican.

After lunch we returned to Piazza Venezia, which is overlooked by an impressive if somewhat grotesque collonaded white building in memory of Vitorio Emmanuel II. A climb up a long flight of steps leads to the summit of he Capitoline Hill, the lowest of the seven hills, where we took a culture break in the Capitoline museums.

Next came the Aventine Hill. The furthest South, it has cliffs on its west side, topped by gardens offering wide views over the River Tiber and towards the Vatican. For reasons we were unable to establish, the narrow Via di San Sabina which runs along the ridge of the hill to Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta was crammed with local people, all out for Saturday afternoon walks.

And finally, the Celian Hill. Well off the tourist track, on its summit is Villa Celimontana, and the large church of saints Giovanni e Paolo dating from the 5th century, where we paused to watch the comic antics of an Italian wedding. At the church door was a group of women whose agitation turned to relief as three sweating young men in suits, one presumably the bridegroom, sprinted down the hill at the last moment before the bride arrived.

Visiting the seven hills was an enjoyable exercise, and it took me to parts of Rome I would never otherwise have visited.

Palatine	Capitoline	Esquiline

Aventine	Celian